FAQs - Part 1
I’ve been in Pavia, a small town in Northern Italy, for over a week and there are a few questions I’ve been asked frequently by friends and family. I decided to answer them here.
Do you like it?
Yes. I have decided I adore Italy. I have only experienced the smallest sliver, but what I have experienced I have enjoyed. I know the general expectation when traveling somewhere distant from home is to cram as much into your trip as possible, to feast on everything, attractions, food, experiences, etc., but this trip feels more like savoring a six-course meal as opposed to an all you can eat buffet. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve briefly considered the buffet, working my way by train to Southern Italy, staying in Florence, Rome, Naples, Calabria, and Palermo with day trips to Barri and Lecce, getting COVID tested twice a week so I can freely ride the trains and visit all the museums and restaurants… but no. This isn’t that kind of trip.
Even though Pavia has an impressive and reliable bus route, I find myself exploring the city slowly on foot, revisiting the same streets repeatedly in hopes of making them familiar. My days consist of only the vaguest of itineraries and taking as much time as possible to truly see and absorb the nuances of this quaint little town. Milan is only a short train ride away, but I haven’t had the desire to leave Pavia yet and I probably wouldn’t even remember to take many photos if it wasn’t for the folks back home asking to see pictures. So am I doing this, Italy, all wrong? Probably, for most people, but it feels right for me.
Why Italy?
The idea came to me in a meditation and then again in a dream. To be exact, the image of a farmhouse at the end of a long winding dirt road in Europe came to me (which may or may not have been in Italy), but the subsequent aforementioned dream definitely showed me Italy, so here I am. Some people travel to Italy for the food, some for culture or romance; I came to Italy for… the farms. If you’re thinking, ‘Seriously?’ right now all I can say is, ‘Yes, seriously.’ :)
How do you spend your days?
I go to the grocery store, a lot. I didn’t rent a car so I often make trips to ‘Coop’ for my meals at home and because I am constantly discovering I need/want things that did not make it into my luggage, like floss, cleaning supplies, bug spray, sunscreen, a pencil, etc. I also take walks to nearby parks and into the center of town (which is about a 20-minute walk from my Airbnb) to window shop and actually shop. I read a lot, research random topics about my stay, respond to messages from friends and take care of emails and routine matters related to my life back in Vegas.
How are the locals? Have you made friends?
The locals are lovely, and I have not befriended even one. :) To be honest, it just hasn’t occurred to me to make new friends or even want any. There’s already a fullness to my days that I’m busy savoring alone. Plus, people do not go around saying “Buongiorno!” to me, or one another, in the streets as they pass, but they are polite. Most of my interactions have been transactional and so far, all of the individuals I’ve encountered have been patient and kind.
Some friends back home have assumed many locals speak English, but only one (a young woman at a Footlocker- a story for another time) has known any real English. I get by with a smile and my most trotted out phrase (“Scusami, turista Americana, non parlo Italiano.”), the few words of Italian I do know and lots of pointing and gesturing. I’ve used a translation app once, but it was slow going and not the smoothest experience.
What is the best thing you’ve eaten so far?
Gelato! I have never tasted anything as fresh and bright as the limone gelato from Angelo del Gelato, it’s soft and cool and brings to mind the image of whipped clouds melting on my tongue each time I enjoy it.
To my happy surprise, my favorite grocery store sometimes sells a vegan cornetto (similar to a croissant) as do some of the cafés around town. I have also tried a few fresh slices of pizza and focaccia here and there, but I mostly eat at home.
Why in the world are you mostly eating at home in Italy?
I know, I know, Friend. I am disappointed in myself too, but the timing of breakfast and dinner has proved tricky for me. I am typically up between 4-6 a.m., but very few cafes open before 10. I don’t drink much coffee these days anyway and I’m not sure I can even handle the strong espresso Italians are known for.
Most restaurants, especially the well-rated ones, don’t open until about 7ish. That might not sound like an issue, but it is hot in Pavia, as in Vegas hot, and the sun doesn’t set until 8:30 p.m., which would be fine and dandy except for the fact I am so tired by 7 p.m. that the thought of roaming the town looking for a vegan pasta dish to eat outdoors exhausts me. So, I don’t. I stay in, if I don’t skip dinner altogether I fix myself a light meal (one that doesn’t require the use of the stove) and go to bed early. On the bright side, I am finally a morning person! All it took was a move to a different country. ;)
